Julieta’s Blog – Summer season waves in Hainan – 夏天的浪在海南岛

From May to September the swell gets to Hainan mostly from the south, that’s why during the summer Dadonghai Bay becomes the most popular surf spot in the island – even if it isn’t the only break working.

因为从5月至9月浪涛在海南大多从南边来到,所以在这个岛,大东海湾成为夏天时的最流行的冲浪地方 – 即使还有浪在别的湾。

Waves during the summer are not as consistent as during the winter but we definitely have some fun sessions. You should expect easy mellow waves from knee to shoulders high, perfect for learning and improving.

即使冬天有比较一贯的浪,夏天我们也定然玩得高兴。你们应该预期从膝盖到肩膀高的容易柔和浪,这种浪合适对初学者和提高你们冲浪的水平。

Although at low tide it can get steep and high enough to have fun on a shortboard, pack a longboard and/or a fish. Otherwise, avoid travel hazards and rent a board at our shop, we have a wide choice of longboards, fish and shortboards.

虽然有时候退潮时浪是够陡和够高为玩短板,带来一块长板或/和一块鱼短板会是比较适合。否则,避免旅行的困难和在我们的俱乐部出租冲浪板。我们有广大选长板鱼板短板。

Anyway, if you are wondering about Hainan’s summer surf conditions, simply check the photos below that I’ve been taken during this last summer 2011 – they might keep your imagination a bit more realistic:

然而,要是你们想知道关于海南夏天的冲浪的条件,看下面我拍的一些这个夏天照片- 它们会表示比较切实的光景:

Late June was pretty good, after few weeks of flat days and knee high waves, a Typhoon in Taiwan sent some waist to shoulder high waves to us, check them out:

06.26 BandM

Brendan and Matt’s longboard session

06.26 MOYU

DJ Moyu

06.26

Aussies are finding Hainan interesting.

06.26 coalition

Tiezhuang from Inner Mongolia and Moyu from Xi’an, best Chinese young surfers in Hainan and probably in whole China.

06.25 MIKE (2)

Master Mike, from Florida

Except when a typhoon heats the Island or it’s surroundings summer waves are usually small. According to my experience during the last two summers here, we usually get at least three big typhoon sessions during the summer with some head and over head high waves. On the last week of July we had one of those sessions, below the photos of it:

07.30 typhoon wave (2)

07.30 typhoon wave

After the bigger stormy days, the swell keeps on going for a while. That is how a sunny and extremely hot August started, check it out:

7.31 day after typhoon long wave

Before a typhoon gets to the Island the swimming area buoys are taken off from the sea. I love that as finally the waves become one long line with out limits to the ride.

DSC_0725

DSC_0731

Brendan

DSC_0776

Laolai, the only local longboarder from Japan

DSC_0763

Paul, from Australia, he moved to work to Sanya one year ago and he is learning to surf with us. A lot of residents in Hainan have joined the local surfing crowd this summer.

Late August and September is usually not a good time in the year for surfing, it’s commonly very flat or extremely small. September 2011 though had surprised me a lot as we got two different swells that lasted for several days: a swell originated by a tropical storm heading straight to Hainan from the very south-west of the continent and the very first north-east swell of the year that we are enjoying now.

DSC_0819

Darci’s party wave!

DSC_0821

Moyu

DSC_0913

Our surfed-out students from Russia and Ukraine

DSC_0915

Jan from Germany, he moved from Nanjing to Sanya last winter with the only purpose of surfing

DSC_0920

Paul Jackson from Australia

DSC_0928

Sanya’s best percussionist Luca, from Italy

DSC_0929

Lillo, the best and most popular Italian surfer and juggler in Hainan

DSC_0934

Matt catching the last lines of the swell

DSC_0941

Justin from Inner Mongolia

Contact us for more information on surf lessons, SUP sessions and trips to the east coast.

See my previous blogs here.

冲浪教练,浆板出租,冲浪旅行的问题 用以下联系。

这里.是我的以前博客。

Text, photos and translation by Julieta Hepner.



Brendan’s Blog – Go Go Go!

Every surfer who has fallen in love with the sport and done it regularly for a few years learns the feeling. Having to really dig hard for a wave, with one hundred percent commitment, confident that you can catch this relative monster with their modified plank. Engage, match, then supercede the speed of the aquademon. And then proceed to make lovely slices upon it’s now-beautiful face.

Relative to the different sport of big-wave surfing, where the consequences are much larger than I have, or will ever, experience, I am being extremely hyperbolic. My comfort zone flirts with double-overhead. On a clean day, once you make one drop and turn, the subsequent rides seem much easier, and you then have the confidence to perform manouvers conservatively on the face, But it takes a strong drive to make you take the plunge. Not literally though. A straight drop into the water, resulting from a failed take-off, turns in to a long hold down. For the uninitiated, panic sets in pretty quickly, and the twelve seconds you spend getting thrashed underwater feels like a small eternity. Just when you think you are free and take a few strokes upwards, the beast sucks you in for one more cycle around.

Three years ago my Aussie friend Tim and I were out at Riyuewan. On one of those rare occasions where the rock bottom formation between Ladies and Ghosties throws hard and fast. It was clean, peeling perfectly with 8-10 foot faces. Tim was all over it, grabbing three good ones before I had even paddled for one. It was obvious I was apprehensive. So Tim said the next one was mine, and that he would talk me on to it. I sat nervously for a minute  until there was a clear bump – actually two or three clear bumps – a good one hundred meters away on the horizon. I sat even more nervously for the next ten seconds, before it was time to get in position. Tim told me to let the first one go. The second one came through, and Tim talked me on to it. His instructions were useful, but the reason it worked is because there was no way I could pull back on a wave that was being singled out for me.  I took the few extra strokes I truly needed, locked in, stood up, and dropped in.

Looking at this photo now, I am happy knowing that a few years later I have become comfortable surfing waves a bit larger than this. Purely from experience. From continuing to push on to larger waves.

We took a crew up to Riyuewan on Saturday. A journalist, his wife, a local resort GM, his son, Darci, and me. I gave Paul a lesson at Ladies, swimming out alongside with him and pushing him on to set waves. Darci came out while Nick shot her from the beach. A Wen was out for a bit, sitting on the boil and getting a ton of waves. Justin came out on one of our 9’10s. He was paddling hard for set waves, but repeatedly stood up to early, lost speed and came to a stop while the wave sped on underneath him. He was physically ready to catch a set wave, but mentally he couldn’t pull the trigger. After Paul had caught his last one in before lunch, I started to swim in. I was about to try and sprint past the impact zone during a lull, but decided instead to turn around and swim back out. I swam over to Justin and said “I’m going to help you on to one.”

It’s tough to see much of the horizon from the degree of a bobbing swimmers head, plus I had lost a contact a half hour earlier from offshore spray splashing it out. But I could still see undeniably a set on the horizon. “Something is coming. I’m going to push you on to the right one.” We let the first two go, then I told Justin to start paddling.

What Justin had been missing before on his previous attempts was that final push. When you paddle on to a wave of size and it starts to take shape, the only thing you can see is the steep drop you are careening towards. The overwhelming instinct is to stand up; to assume a safer position. But it isn’t time yet. There are still four to eight more strokes you must make. Only then will you have caught the wave, and can stand up to make the drop. Empathetically, I knew what Justin needed.

Justin took deep strokes, and I placed my right hand on the back of his board and started kicking along as the wave reached us. I pushed with all my might as Justin continued paddling. The synchronized surge in speed from my push and the wave sent Justin down the face. I watched from behind the wave. A few seconds went by, and saw no surfboard surface (the first sign of a failed take-off, as the board will bounce to the surface before the wipeout victim). I still saw nothing as I dove under the next set wave. I came up, and saw Justin’s head, well down the line from where he took off. He pulled off the wave, turned around, and gave me a huge grin before he fell in to the water.

 

Weekend Swell in RYW

It’s been pretty good over the last few days in Riyuewan. If not for the poor weather – dark and cloudy, with lots of rain – then it would have been amazing. We’re sitting here in Surfing Hainan headquarters with sniffiles and coughs, the result of the drastic change in temperature and time spent in the water.

The main point was working pretty well

Our students on the beach break

Everyone was up and riding

Mike on the beach break. He was killing it.

 

September 24th 2011年9月24日

Because the east swell bringing some shoulder-to-head-high waves to Riyuewan. but it’s very windy and at the point  waves it’s not that powerful, you have to stay on the right place where the waves break at . but the beach break it’s strong and clean. tomorrow should continue.

因为东方风浪的原因给日月湾带来了一些肩到头高的浪。但是风很大在主穴点的地方浪不是很有力,你要呆在正确的地方浪扣的位置才好抓浪,但沙滩浪很有力而且干净。明天应该会继续有浪。

september25th

Beach break  沙滩浪

 

Feel grateful 感激

I like to laugh, because I always feel happy, I think  i’m very fortunate .  always have had good fortune, good friends and a good family. In China it’s not every girl that knows how to swim, but I was lucky enough to live in the tropical island, and became to a surfer girl.  People spend money to come here, but I live here i can enjoy the beach and sunshine everyday. I love the nature, when i get close to nature i absorb a lot of positive energy. so that’s why i chose a job that i can absorb positive energy everyday.

Next month I will participate in the Swatch Girls  Pro China in 26th to 30th October 2011 as a Local Wildcard , Really appreciate ASP give me this chance, I can surf with all the best long board girls . I can’t wait !  also this will be a very good chance to tell the world there is surf in CHINA !!!!  I will try my best to have fun !!!!

(I surfed today so that’s why have a lot of prositive energy now;-) below is some photo from today .

我喜欢笑,因为我很开心。感觉自己很幸运,总是有好的机会,好的朋友跟家人。在中国不是所有的女孩都会游泳的,但是我幸运的处在了海边,成为了一个会冲浪的女孩子。很多人花钱来这里度假,我住在这里不用花钱天天享受这里的阳光沙滩,我喜欢大自然,当我靠近大自然的时候我吸收到很多的正能量。所以我选择了一个让我能每天都吸收正能量的工作。

下月就要参加比赛了,很感谢ASP能给我这么好一个机会,我可以跟世界上最优异成绩的长坂女子们一起冲浪。很期待这一天的到来,也很骄傲自己能代表中国,像世界人们介绍中国也有冲浪。我会努力的,加油!

(今天冲浪了所以正能量很强)以下是我今天冲浪的照片:

DSC_0351

DSC_0419

Weekend Forecast 周末预报

The word on the Yezi Wuxian (extra points if you get that) is that the first east swell of the season is already bringing some chest- to shoulder-high surf to Riyuewan. We’re headed up tomorrow. It’s looking good for the weekend indeed. Should get to head-high, probably a little bigger.

文字叶子无限(猜对加分)这个季节的第一个东岸风浪已经给日月湾带来了一些胸到肩高的浪。我们明天就会去日月湾,周末看起来很不错,可能会到头高,可能会更大一点。

The swell direction with these premier northeast swells can be a bit more east than later in the season. Plus there is the chance that some sand has shifted in Riyuewan over the summer south swells, meaning some point breaks might not behave as they usually do.

在后面一点的季节里风浪的方向从最主要的东北方向会更加的偏东方向。再加上日月湾在夏天的时候有一些沙子移位了,说明可能有些主浪点不会像平常那么好。

We’ve got the National Day holiday coming soon. We’ve had surf from a tropical cyclone for each of the previous five National Day golden weeks that I’ve been here. Maybe I’ve grown apophenic, but I’m predicting we’ll get one this year as well. Like how there is always good surf on Dragon Boat day in the early summer.

马上国庆节就来了。自从我来到这里连续五年在国庆黄金周的时候都有一个星期的热带风旋浪。我相信今年我们也会得到的,就像夏天端午节的时候永远都会有好浪的。

Forecast for Saturday

Forecast for Sunday