January 9th

Ah I am in a very good mood, Had a fun session earlier today on some nice lefts with really good shape. Only about rib-high on the sets, but after the surf we've had recently, that's enough to get one pretty stoked. This was the second session I've had with my new Blair 6'2 quad. Super nice board, the dimension are quite good for me.

The swell will drop quite a bit overnight and not be too much left for tomorrow. But it looks like by Tuesday we will have an even better sized swell coming through. Still nothing amazing (probably not much bigger than shoulder-high), but we will take it. Stupid El Nino crap season.