We drove to remote areas, where we found broad beach breaks and empty point breaks.
Sadly many 5 stars resorts and ugly holiday tall buildings were under construction there. The amount of speculation in this Island is frightening and unsustainable.
We entered in one of those hotels and checked which waves they were hiding.
The waves weren’t big enough so we decided to go back towards south.
To find the perfect spot was more difficult than what we thought:
Some were closing out
Some seamed messy and breaking too close to the shore.
Some seamed too far and dangerous to reach.
Fortunately Mike knew about a secret spot and took us there. We found head high, powerful, clean waves… Check them out on Part 3!
See my previous blogs here.
Photos, translation and text by Julieta Hepner