SUP Diary – Day Thirteen 浆板日记第十三天

I went up to RYW yesterday with some customers. Choppy surf with strong side to onshore winds. I took a 9’0 out and had a blast. 昨天我和一些朋友去了日月湾。浪有些乱,逆风。我用的一块9英尺长的板,划水出去的时候阻力很大。

One thing I love with the longboard is the ability to get a ride all the way into the beach. One of my favorite surfing manouveres is the Longboard Sand Dismount. The LSD (I honestly didn’t notice that until right now) evolved out of necesity, and is used when you are riding a wave which is quickly arriving at the beach, with just one foot or so of water depth. When the large fin of a longboard hits the sand, and you are still standing on the board, it can easily snap off, or worse, bust out the board’s fin box. But no damage is done if the fin strikes the sand sans-rider – there isn’t enough weight to force a break.
So when you don’t have much water left between the board and the sand, you flick the board out in front of you and on to the beach, while you step off the side of the board and land – ina few inches of water, or better, on dry sand. It’s not really possible to stick a dismount, as you will have jumped off with a fair amount of speed. So you run it out, and often times take a nice fall. It usually looks quite awkward, but feels rather good to perform, as you are also celebrating catching a wave all the way from the outside to the utmost inside. Getting a wave all the way to the beach is like getting a touchdown in American football. And flicking the board on to the sand while you dismount is the celebratory spike.


Got two sessions in yesterday, and a forty minute run on the beach. I’m taking today off to rest, then tomorrow will start Brick Monday. A ‘brick’, in triathlon speak, is training two of the disciplines during the same workout. I’m using it to mean a paddle followed by a run, and will start to do one every Monday. I’m thinking a 4.8km paddle and 10km run. In the last week, I’ve spoken to a few friends about it doing a SUP/Run endurance race. Early stages yet, but I’m keen to organize it because it gives me something to train towards. It was too easy to fall off in to the third month last year.

More information about the race in future entries. See my previous entries here.

我喜欢用长板的其中一个原因是可以一直滑行到沙滩上。我其中一个比较擅长的技巧就是用长板在沙滩上刹车。长板沙滩刹车技巧(老实说在此之前我从没听过)包括主观行为和非主观两种。当你抓到一个速度很快的浪并快冲到沙滩上时,马上从板上下来到板的旁边,这样长板尾部上的鳍就不会很容易坏掉了。因为长板在冲到沙滩上时板上没有重量和压力来造成鳍的损坏。
当你发现板和沙子之间的水已经很浅的时候,迅速用脚将板往前送出让板冲到沙滩上,你同时在板的一边下板(我习惯左边,就像大部分正脚的冲浪者一样)到水中或者更好的是直接冲到沙滩上。事实上往往很难完全停住,当你从板上下来时也有一定的速度,所以你会继续往前跑几步。人们经常跌入水中,但那看起来总有些不是那么回事。比起跌入水中,直接冲上沙滩更像是在表演,在庆祝你一直从海中央滑到了岸边沙滩上。这样像美式足球里面的触底得分一样。将板送出冲向沙滩也像是在做出一个胜利的手势!
昨天冲浪共玩了两轮,最后还有一次40分钟的跑步。今天就休息一天了,明天将两项一起开始。两项指的是铁人三项的这个意思,指在同一次时间内先后不间断地进行两种运动。我用来指浆板和跑步,而且我准备每周一都做一次。我向不少朋友提过举办一个浆板加跑步的比赛,现在暂时还没有这样的比赛,但是如果能组织比赛就能给我继续训练的目标。去年第三个月的训练放弃的太快了。
更多有关将来这个赛事的信息。这里.是我的上一篇。